Setting Converter
Found a setting for a 40 W machine but yours is 60 W? Enter the original and your wattage to get three starting points (balanced, faster or cooler). They match the energy delivered per pass instead of scaling the numbers blindly.
The setting you have
Your machine
Pick a brand and model to fill in the laser type and wattage, or set them by hand.
Estimated starting points: 40 W → 60 W CO2
BalancedSuggested
40%
15 mm/s
Power scaled to match the energy at the same speed.
Faster
60%
22.5 mm/s
Same power. A stronger laser can move faster; a weaker one must slow down.
Cooler
28%
10.5 mm/s
Lower power and a slower pass. Less heat and charring on delicate materials.
These are math-based starting points (matched energy per pass), not guaranteed settings. Always test on scrap. Real results depend on material, focus, lens and air assist. For cutting, the faster option is usually the better pick. For dark engraving on wood or MDF, you may need to stay slower.
Which of the three to pick
Balanced keeps the speed and adjusts the power. It is the safest general starting point. Faster keeps the power and changes the speed. It is usually what you want when cutting on a stronger laser. Cooler lowers the power and slows down, for heat-sensitive materials where scorching matters more than speed.
Why it won't convert between laser types
Diode, CO2, fiber and UV lasers work on materials through different physics. There is no honest multiplier between them, so the converter won't give you a confident wrong number. Search the library for a setting made on your laser type instead.
It is a starting point
Real results depend on lens, focus, air assist, beam quality and the material batch. Always test on scrap.